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The one-dimensional interaction of surface gravity waves with nondispersive internal waves is studied in a linear approximation by solving the equations of motion in a coordinate system moving with th...
Knowledge of the kinematics of the flow beneath surface waves is vital for the design of offshore structures. Due to the technical of making pertinent measurement in storm conditions, knowledge of the...
The behavior of a wind-sea is investigated for wave directions differing from the local wind direction. To describe the phenomenon we added the mean wave direction as an additional prognostic quantity...
Induced streaming due to deep water surface gravity waves propagating at oblique angles to each other is studied theoretically on the basis of a Lagrangian description. The ocean is slightly viscous, ...
The energy of seaward and shoreward propagating ocean surface gravity waves on a natural beach was estimated with data from an army of 24 bottom-mounted pressure sensors in 13-m water depth, 2 km from...
The physical processes responsible for maintaining the mixed layer am examined by considering the velocity structure. The low-frequency Ekman response in the interior of unstratified mixed layers is m...
The nonlinear dispersion of random, directionally spread surface gravity waves in shallow water is examined with Boussinesq theory and field observations. A theoretical dispersion relationship giving ...
The effects of surface gravity waves on pore-water release from permeable sediment (k 5 1.3–1.8 3 10211 m2 ) in shallow water were studied in a wave tank. Our tracer experiments demonstrated that s...

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